Category Archives: Chile

Blood, Guts and Beer

Our segment in Chile is now already finished. The time passed really quickly here… it pretty much slipped by, as we had such great times! Infernal hails to Matias and his family, Fernando, Francisco, Moolyn, Rodrigo, Andres, Juan Pablo, Carlos and his wife, Chris, Panda, Pablo and his wife, and everyone that shared parties and concerts with us. We will forever remember this country as being close to our (metal) hearts!

But you wonder, what have we been doing in the past few days? We haven’t updated our journal since Valdivia, so here is what happened after that chapter:

March 25th/24th – Temuco
We were invited in the home of Pablo, who is the promoter of our Temuco show. He is the owner of a metal record shop (Tienda 666 – M. Rodriguez 93, Temuco), and promotes metal concerts every month. A truly dedicated and serious individual, but also a good drinking buddy, Pablo spoke only Spanish so we practiced the hell out of it! By the second day, I was dreaming in Spanish hahaha… to be honest, I think our Spanish improved so much in those days. We were actually able to somewhat understand the Chilean accent!!

So Pablo gave us a culinary tour of Temuco’s seafood scene. We went to the market, and he brought us to a stall – which served us raw, and almost still alive seafood; piure (some kind of mollusc with a strong iodine taste) and sea urchin. I am not a fan of seafood, but I tried them anyway… the sea urchin was salty and ok tasting, but the piure tasted really, really strong, and upon biting it – some kind of weird juice came out, which made me gag… but I did swallow it!! I still have the taste in my memory. I had to eat many things to get rid of it hahaha. But after that, he bought some mussels and some white fish with creepy teeth and tongue, and brought it back home. He also bought some smoked ribs and meat from other stalls in the market.

When we arrived home, he cut some wood while one of his dogs was patiently waiting for something to happen…

Pablo the lumberjack


And he then lit up a barbecue, and placed some kind of big cast iron dish on top of it. Then, he placed some chicken in the middle, as well the mussels, meat, ribs and some water:


After a while, he added the fish and some white wine, and covered everything with newspaper to keep the flavours trapped:


And voilà! It’s ready! He brought the food inside the house, added a bit more white wine, and then served it with some cilantro:

The finished meal!

The taste was really killer; especially the broth, which was a mix of the smoke flavour of the bbq, the juices of all the meat, seafood and the white wine. The chicken, especially, was deadly as it was melting like butter… and the smoked ribs were killer as well! Like I said earlier, I am not a huge fan of seafood, but I have to admit that the black mussels were really good with all that flavour!! We learned afterwards that this special dish is called Asado al disco, or bbq with disc. It is a Chilean specialty mostly made in the South, and perhaps once a month. You cannot order that in the restaurants, it’s strictly made in the backyards of southern Chileans!

So in the evening, we went drinking at a cerveceria, a cool venue with shitty bands, and then a weird bar with Kunstmann beer on tap.

Drinking Kunstmann, again!

The next day was our gig in Temuco! It was at this huge venue, that probably held around 800 people!!! The stage was big, and it sounded like an outdoor festival or something. The other bands were mostly death doom and one was a local heavy/thrash metal band.

Cauchemar and Condenados team, before the gig

Myself and Francisco, scaring unwanted people away

Overall, about 160 appeared at the show! That’s quite alot for us, almost the two first shows put together! It seems like the entire metal/punk scene was out:

François with the crowd behind him

Condenados played a heavy set, with songs from their full length, the upcoming split with The Temple, and some older material. Their distortion was so heavy that it created some kind of wall of sound, which I think, stunned alot of people!




Then it was our turn to go on the stage… I think that performance-wise, this was our best show on this tour! And the crowd too, reacted extremely well to our songs. I saw tons of people headbanging and even saw a small mosh during La Valse Funèbre, haha! I just find their support completely surreal…!! We are apparently the first Canadian band that played there, and on top of it, all we did was release a 5-song EP that is written in French… and the crowd knew our songs!! It’s really out of this world! Some people thanked us to have stopped in Temuco… I guess they really appreciate it when out of country bands come and play there. Cool!

March 25th – Concepcion
We arrived at around 6:30 in the morning, in Concepcion – hometown of Condenados. We were welcomed by Matias (Condenados bassist)’ parents with a nice breakfast and hot herbal teas. It was extremely welcomed, because traveling by bus in the Southern Chilean night is really cold! (5 degrees celcius?)  We had a siesta, and then ate again – this time, some homemade Chinese food, carefully prepared by Matias’ mother:

Home-made chinese food

Coconut flan! This was so good! It’s like fancy French restaurant food!

Fresh raspberry juice, held by Matias.

We stayed in Matias’ home for 4 nights, and were treated like a royalty. Matias’ mother made us extremely tasty meals from scratch EVERYDAY (she cooks with pure magic) and we always ate until we couldn’t walk anymore… haha. We had also another Chilean specialty at their place, CHORIPAN! They are basically small chorizo sausages on the BBQ with bread, mayonnaise and tomato salsa:

Chorizo asado

Choripan!

Anyway, in Concepcion, in the same evening, we  played our last gig of the tour. It was in a small cafe-bar, and we played second – alongside some Death Metal band (which we stupidly missed), Condenados and some black metal band called Pervertor (not Perversor). There was about 30 people that attended, which made the bar looked completely full! Haha! The sound there was really cool, because it was like a rehearsal… and we were really close to the crowd too.

Fernando and Matias of Condenados

Fernando's foot with wall of sound effects

Francisco Poderoso

For our part of the show, we borrowed a really shitty guitar that was in tune near the head, and out of tune near the body… which resulted in an overall pretty bad sound. It’s not the end of the world though, as it became a bit better after a few adjustments. We weren’t really satisfied of our performance, but I think it still came out good under the circumstances!

Cauchemar! Photo by chick with black hair and red lips. Thanks girl!

So like I mentioned earlier, we stayed in Concepcion for a few days. To those who don’t remember, Concepcion was the epicenter of the great Chilean earthquake of last year – which reached an impressive 8.8 on the scale of Richter, killing more than 500 people. Most of the buildings were recovered, but you could still see some ruins of buildings:

This one is split into three!! 8 people died, and 100 people were not found until weeks later... really crazy!

We walked around alot in the downtown area, and stumbled upon an interesting pub…

A Quebec pub?? In Concepcion??

And YES! They had poutine!! Almost real poutine, with home-made brown sauce! Oh, we were so excited.

The menu - Notice the Elvis Poutine!

The Poutine! The sauce was a bit too cold, the fries a bit too salty, but overall the taste was there! It was such a pleasure eating it, haha.

After, we kept on walking around, and stumbled upon a wall of magazines, with a funny old zine of some totally forgotten Kiss member, the ANKH, Vinnie Vincent:

The magician: Vinnie!

And we saw more dogs, doing what seems to be a lazy doggy style position..

On the last day of our stay in Concepcion, Matias’ car broke down, so the guys had to push it in order to make it start or something. I don’t know. I took this funny photo to remember the moment:

Pushing car in Concepcion neighborhood

And then we thanked everyone for a great time with some home-made Poutine Italienne! It was very much appreciated, just by seeing the fiery look in their eyes. Perhaps in a few years, it will be more Chileans’ kitchens!! Haha. Spreading the poutine love around the world.

Italian poutine madness! Pictured here are François, Matias, Valeria and Fernando

April 1st
We arrived at our friend JP (vocalist of Battle Axe)’s home in Santiago, which welcomed us with a nice BBQ. Don’t have too much photos, we were too busy headbanging, eating and drinking wine! Thank you for your hospitality, JP!!!

April 2nd
We spent the day in Templo, the excellent record shop of Deathmessiah and Hellavenger. As promised, here are some photos of the shop… it is not to be missed when visiting Santiago!!

La puerta del inferno!

TEMPLO - Ave Providencia #2528, Local #57

TEMPLO - Ave Providencia #2528, Local #57

TEMPLO - Ave Providencia #2528, Local #57

TEMPLO - Ave Providencia #2528, Local #57

TEMPLO - Ave Providencia #2528, Local #57

Hellavenger and Deathmessiah in TEMPLO

Ok, that is all for today. Thanks for everything, Chile! We will be back one day!

A wineyard with a Los Andes mountain in the background... Now, we are off to the other side of the mountains to Argentina!

Condenados and Cauchemar, Coven style.
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Beer! Gimme gimme gimme gimme beer!

After Valparaiso, we did a 12 hour drive south, to the small but sweet town of Valdivia, home to Kuravilu records, the biggest number of German immigrants in Chile, as well as the biggest earthquake ever recorded. The pace of life here is much slower and people are visibly very happy.

Myself and the Cauchemar tourbus! Haha! It was such luxury, we were on the second floor with a panoramic view of everything. Since it was a night ride, the “host” actually tucked us into bed with a pillow and a blanket. It was extremely cheap too – 18$ (bought in advance) for 12 hours… ridiculous!

The river side in Valdivia – you can see the tents of the fishmarket at the very back of the photo.

I have been in contact for a long time with Carlos Flores from Kuravilu Prods, one of the best underground labels in Chile. Him and his wife kindly invited us to their home and made us a killer dinner consisting of seafood, cheese empanadas and fish. They even shared some home-made beer with us! It was really amazing. I don’t have any photos as I was a bit too drunk at that point… haha.

Carlos also suggested us to visit some ancient Spanish fortifications near Valdivia – in Niebla (which we did):

The river, connected to the sea. There were tons of fortifications all over the sides of the river.

The fortifications! The canons were barely used as people were too scared to even dare attacking the Spaniards here. You see the kind of oven at the right, also? This was used to heat the canon balls before shooting them, so the ships would burn upon receiving the hit. Amazing!!

Some ruins, as well as the Captain’s house (which they turned into a museum).

Since they are so close to the sea, and earthquakes are pretty frequent, bad tsunamis happen in this area…

Tsunami evacuation route!

After this, we went to visit the Kunstmann brewery, home of South America’s best beer. It was a total blast!!! The beer was extremely fresh, and the atmosphere was totally German:

The Kunstmann brewery’s bar

The regular client’s wall… this was actually a wall of lockers containing beer mugs of frequent visitors. I thought that was quite amusing!

Myself with some sample beers!

Look at those beautiful robes… arghhh!

Carlos with François, enjoying two excellent lagers.

Myself, François and Carlos’ kid, Augustin, after a few hours of beer drinking (except for Augustin haha)

I love the German atmosphere of Valdivia. There was a big wave of German immigrants because a bit more than a hundred years ago, the south of Chile wanted to attract some people by giving out free land. Tons of Germans came, and naturally they brought their culture with them… and you can still see that around in some architecture and FOOD!

We went to some restaurant called Cafe Hausmann, which had one of the best dishes we’ve tried in South America; crudos! They are a mix of Chilean and German food – and are basically toast, raw meat, onions, peppers, lemon and home-made mayonnaise. It sounds weird, but they were so tasty, you have no idea! It was an overdose of flavor on the tongue!

Crudos. Amazing. Amazing! I will be craving this for years!!!!

We also ate some piñones, which are gigantic pine nuts. It was a pain in the ass to cook and prepare, but they were really good! Apparently, they are a mapuche (the native Chilean people) stable food:

Piñones sautéed in olive oil with salt and parsley. Kind of tasted like a mix of nuts and potatoes!

And I also had some soup at the market:

Calzone, I think? Don’t remember the name, but it contained a fatty piece of beef, a potato, some pumpkin and some peace of corn – cooked in a nice and rich broth.

The hostel we are staying in (Aerosbuenos) is not bad; the sleeping rooms are kind of crappy with shitty beds and some kind of insect biting me during the night (it feels like mosquitos, but maybe they aren’t??), but the breakfast and backyard (with animals!) made it worthwhile:

François with the hostel duck. Apparently, the duck is homosexual?

Some… chickens?

So today, after eating more Crudos (hell yes!!!), we’ll be taking the bus to Temuco (where we’ll play the third show of our tour). Not sure if I’ll be able to connect myself to the Internet for the next week, but who knows!


Headless Cross

We are now in Valparaíso, about two hours from Santiago. Being one of the most important seaports in Chile, this city has a real Mediterranean feel. The houses are painted thousands of different colors, and frankly, it feels totally different from Santiago. There are wild animals as well as graffiti everywhere in the streets. And like many other cities in Chile, Valparaíso is prone to earthquakes; we felt three really small ones in one day! Also, the city is surrounded by hills – where most people live. Our hostel (Hostal Luna Sonorisa – killer place with a great breakfast!) is located on one of these hills, which takes 20 minutes of walking upwards to reach. After we finish this city, our legs are going to be made of steel!

One of the escalators we can take to get home...

François with the view outside our hostel. The road kind of disapears behind him because it is so steep

A view of the city from one of the hills (Alemania street) - You can see the bay in the background.

Another view of the city on a nicer day.

A street of Valparaiso at night

And like I mentioned, this place is plagued with tons of graffiti everywhere, some that are pretty funny:

Hehe

Now, this one just gets me... Come on, doing a Metallica graffiti and writing... Load? I should have written another one with "Celtic Frost - Cold Lake" beside it haha

And like I mentioned, there are tons and tons of homeless animals here, some of them you just want to take with you back to your home! Some dog followed us for about an hour on the first day we were in this town.

Alice, the dogs photos are for you!!!

Some cute mutt in his home

Two dogs, passing time on the stairs

Cute dog washing itself in the park

This dog was begging for some food for a good 30 minutes! Haha

A really adorable cat, on the side of the street

A black cat, photo taken on the way to the cemetery...

Keeping it warm

A two-headed calf. Ok, this was taken at some museum hahaha

So this week, we also visited the Valparaíso cemetery, located on another hill. It was a pain in the ass to get there! I guess they want to give the eventual zombies a hard time… or something.

Valparaíso cemetery

Valparaíso cemetery

Open grave...

Cheap-ass grave

Creepy gate thing with spider web

Mausoleum with tons of crosses and opened grave

Zombie BBQ in the cemetery!

And in relation to the cemetery, we went to a small museum in Viña del Mar (a small city right next to Valparaiso) and I finally got to see a Chilean mummy! Check it out:

Arghhh!! 20-year old female, dead about 2000 years ago...

And some cool Ecuadorian shrunken heads… these were heads of the enemies, shrunken to trap their souls forever, so they don’t come back and haunt the killer… really creepy stuff:

Shrunken head

Shrunken head

Shrunken head with a feathered hat??

François standing in front of a real Easter Island sculpture

And we also went to eat some Chorrillana (some kind of greasy fries topped with beef, onions and eggs) at the most famous place here, J. Cruz – which was pretty overpriced, but still worth it for the beautiful interior decoration:

J. Cruz restaurant

J. Cruz restaurant

Chorrillana! We took the onions and eggs on the side, but usually they are on top of the beef. Really killer and artery clogging, but nothing compared to poutine!

And to finish, here is an extremely funny ad for…

Children's leash!!! Never lose your child again!!!! Look at the sad face this little girl has... hahaha

So that’s all for today! Tonight we are off to play our second concert in Chile, with Condenados, Bad Joke, Metal Grave and Marchafunebre… should be really killer. Come to the sabbat!

Our gig tonight - at the Valparaiso Rock bar


Into the Coven

Week two in Chile. 62 days abroad, 8792 km away from home. We have been keeping it really busy these days – walking around, partying, bbq’ing, rehearsing, visiting record shops, eating and playing our first show in Chile!

The gig was quite early (3PM – 9PM), but it went really, really well. All the bands were absolutely killer, especially Metal Grave, Axe Battler and Condenados.

The entrance ticket

The first band that played was RIPPER, consisting of a few young talented headbangers. They had alot of energy and played in a similar style to old Sepultura. In fact, they did a cover of “Inquisition Symphony” (that instrumental song from Schizophrenia). Really cool! Check them out here.

Ripper

Then, METAL GRAVE from Valparaiso played. They, on the other had, had more of an original sound. They played traditional heavy metal with tinge of doom (kind of reminded me of GOAT HORN sometimes), and a vocalist with a mild King Diamond-style voice. They were actually really great, and are definitely a band to look out for… this was their first show, and they are about to record some demo tracks. No song samples, only photos:

Metal Grave – Judas Priest style!

Metal Grave

After came Axe Battler, a Santiago band playing NWOBHM-influenced heavy metal. They were absolutely amazing and sounded like a cross between SATAN and ELIXIR. They even did a CLOVEN HOOF cover (Gates of Gehenna). The vocalist had insanely good vocals, reaching ball-breaking heights… and the songs themselves were really killer. Of course, this is nothing extremely original but well-crafted heavy metal with SPIRIT. Check out a sample here.

Axe Battler

After Axe Battler, we came on… I don’t have photos of our set yet, but I will add some soon! We played with Matias and Francisco from Condenados!

Then to finish the (early) night, Condenados took the stage, and crushed it to pieces. They played about an hour, and their extremely heavy doom metal made me (and several other people in the crowd) go insane. It’s the first show since the release of their new album, A Painful Journey Through Nihil (out on Shadow Kingdom Records). You can check out their songs here.

Fernando from Condenados

Condenados

Matias!!! This guy had so much energy while playing bass!!

And then at the end of the set, I went on stage to sing a couple of songs with ’em:

Myself on stage with the Condenados guys

After this, we had a nice bbq on the roof of a 27-floor building in downtown Santiago. We had beer and choripan (chorizo sausages in fresh bread)!

Condenados y Cauchemar, minus Francisco, who left right after the gig

The view of Santiago from the 27th floor of a downtown building (where we were having a bbq)

That’s pretty much all for yesterday. Beside that, this week, we visited a few record shops – all located in some commercial center. Some were ok, but the prices were so high that it wasn’t really worth it to buy anything. I still took a few photos for you guys:

The Knife – owned by the biggest metal promoter in Santiago + the bassist of PENTAGRAM (Chile)

Toxic – Great selection, but insane prices! 40$ for a PENTAGRAM (Chile) CD? Yeah right!

I am still missing photos of Templo (the best record shop in Santiago). I will take some at the end of the month, when we return to Santiago for a few days.

Everyone knows it, Chile is a country of wine. Over here, you can pay 2$ for a really fine bottle of extremely tasty wine. You can even find cheap 1.5L wine in plastic bottles!

Plastic 1.5L bottles of white wine. The Chilean really love their wine.

Extremely tasty Chilean wine, with Andres Padilla in the background

And what goes hand in hand with wine? EATING! And BBQing!

BBQ! Those sausages at the right were absolutely, amazingly, mind destroyingly good!

Chilean BBQ secret: SALT

And here is a little wine-inspired recipe for you:

Anti-Goth Pasta Sauce

Ingredients (for two):
Red wine
3 tbsp of olive oil
5 tomatoes, cut in small pieces
300 ml of tomato paste
1 whole garlic bulb, prepared but left in full cloves
3/4 cup of water
2 tsp dried oregano
1 laurel leaf
Fresh basil, chopped
1 handful of black olives, chopped
Salt (to taste)
Garlic bread (optional)
Spaghetti

Ingredients

First, boil your water for your pasta. While this is happening, warm up the olive oil in a pan, then add the chopped tomatoes.

Don’t mind the gigantic garlic braising on the left…

Cook until the tomatoes are quite soft, and then add the whole garlic cloves. Add the pasta in the boiling water. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add tomato paste, water, laurel leaf and cook for another 10 minutes. Add a glass of wine, then mix everything.

Remove pasta from boiling water. Add oregano and salt to pasta sauce. Press on one garlic clove to see if it is soft – if not, try adding a bit of water and keep on cooking.

When done, put the spaghetti in a plate, add the pasta sauce, top with black olives and basil leaves. Serve with garlic bread, and a nice glass of red wine! Now, you can kill vampires with your breath!


We also drank some nice beer. It feels good to be a country with a high German population; the beer here is absolutely amazing!

German-style microbrewery beer

Kunstmann beer. We’ll visit the brewery in Valdivia in a week and a half. Great beer, but a bit more expensive than the other ones.

And we finally tasted some Chilean food:

Pastel de Chocolo – some kind of Shepperd’s pie with an egg, some olives, a chicken drumstick and added sugar on top to make the crust nice and crusty.

Completo con churrasco a la italiano! A hot dog bun, thin beef streaks, guacamole, tomatoes and mayonnaise. Try it at home, it’s amazing!

Mote con huesillos; peach syrup, wheat cobs and dried peaches together. It’s a truly Chilean thing and it is actually really good and refreshing!

Humita. It’s like the Chilean version of Tamales.

Corn batter, onions, basil and lard. Mmm.

Delicious lemon pie. Look at all that meringue!

That’s pretty much all for the food. We also saw some cool houses while walking around Santiago, like this one:

Weird german-style architecture in Santiago

Well, that’s all for today. We are leaving for Valparaiso tomorrow… More news from there! Cheers!


Black Arts Lead to Everlasting Sins

54 days abroad! We arrived in Santiago last Monday, at 6AM. We are staying at Andres Padilla (www.corvusdiscos.cl)’s place, in a very nice area of the city. Frankly, we have been way too busy this week to do any touristic things, all we did was party, get tattooed, visit a fantastic food market and a record store!

So far, our impression of Santiago is very very good. In fact, we feel right at home here! The people are very friendly, the city is clean and it’s very efficient (the metro system is so easy to use!) It kinda feels like Montreal a bit, except there are dogs everywhere haha… I love that!

So our first day in Santiago, our friend Matias (Condenados bassist) invited us to a welcome party. We ended up getting totally wasted with him and his friends:

Francois, Annick, Panda and Matias with our midnight beer! The metal cans smelled like armpits, so I had to pour the beer in a glass to be able to drink it haha

Annick and Francois with the Cauchemar/Condenados CD’s

Carlos and Matias at the Cronos bar (a few days later)

The day after, totally hungover, we went to get tattooed at Daniel Desecrator’s home studio. He is an extremely talented Chilean illustrator/tattoo artist, and has done hundreds of logos, album covers, shirts and artwork for the metal scene. He is also the bassist and vocalist of black metal band Slaughtbbath.  You can view his black art here: www.myspace.com/selfdesecrator

Some of Daniel’s artwork on the walls (click to see details)

Beautiful oil painting just finished…

Skull collection! The long one is from a pelican!

Daniel’s torture needles

The master at work

On the torture table!

Tattoo in progress…

The result, after 5 hours! A giant deadly snake surrounding the Slayer sword!

Daniel and myself with some torture victims that did not survive…

And we finished the week by visiting the La Vega, which is a giant and quite exciting market. I didn’t take too many photos because we were kind of in a hurry!

A dog, keeping the potatoes warm at the La Vega market. This dog hated technology and its owners had to calm him down when I took out my camera haha

Some limes, potatoes (yes, those pink things are potatoes!) and other stuff at the La Vega market in Santiago

Yesterday we went to a really nice and totally underground metal shop called TEMPLO, owned by the COMMUNION guys. I will talk more about them and their evil doings later. Now, we are planning to rest for the weekend, with perhaps a nice barbecue… ahhh, life rules!


Let the End Begin

Tomorrow night, a 9:50PM flight from Bogota will be transporting us to Santiago de Chile, where a new, mysterious land awaits. We loved Colombia, its people, the metal and the food, but we are also very excited to visit a new country. We’ll be spending a month in Chile; playing 4 concerts:

Cauchemar tour with doom metal band Condenados!

We are very much looking forward to this, and will fill you guys up with every detail possible. In the meantime, here is what we did on our last full day in Bogota; going on top of the Monserrate mountain located at an altitude of 3512 meters above the sea!

Telepheric to go on top of the mountain

Some sort of garden thing, located at the bottom of the telepheric

The view of Bogota from the top was absolutely fantastic. You don’t really notice how big the city is when you’re in it, but from the top it’s a totally different story:

The city of Bogota! So huge!!!

Our metal guide Miguel, with myself and François – posing with mountains from Monserrate

Some house thing

We then descended, and had our last dinner – ajiaco straight from a Bogota restaurant. It’s the same soup I had in Medellin – made from scratch by Andres, but this tasted quite different. Anyway, it really hit the spot!

Ahiaco – Bogota’s most traditional soup. Yes, there is a whole chicken leg in it!

We also visited a big flea market, where there were a few metal stands. I bargained the hell out of this tape:

My scores of the day… a pack of chips I won (had to visit around 10 stores to finally get my prize haha) and a nice 2$ New York Metal compilation tape from 1984!

Ok, that’s all! Good night, and see you all in Chile!!! Hahaha