Transylvanian Hunger

We flew from Paris to Bucharest on “Wizz Airlines”, which in American English translates to “Piss Airlines”, haha, I just can’t help myself but to smile stupidly every time I see their logo:

Wizz Airlines! Good thing their colors are not piss yellow haha

We got really lucky, because in the plane, we met a nice Romanian metal girl who told us tons about her country! Cristina helped us to basically plan our whole trip. Thanks a lot!! She also told us that it would be very hot in Bucharest. I was quite excited because everything has been so cold in Europe so far… but I take it back now. Bucharest was like 40 degrees celcius, and every meter we walked made us sweat a liter.

Bucharest
20-06-2012

Bucharest is Romania’s capital – where most Romanian metal bands come from. It is also where the bloody dictator Ceauşescu reigned, and destroyed a shitload of medieval buildings (1/6th of the city!) to build a huge, costly monument; the House of the People. The city didn’t strike me as being really beautiful, but it certainly had character!

Some guy fishing in a river in the middle of town. I saw many guys doing that, I guess the water isn’t that polluted?

Unirii square. It was supposed to be butt-ugly according to our guidebook, but it looked pretty cool I though!

The House of the People. When it is fully lit, it consumes the same amount of electricity in four hours as the whole city of Bucharest in a day! It was built when the country was extremely extremely poor…

We went to a restaurant called Caru cu Bere, which is apparently the most famous restaurant in Bucharest. It mostly offers tasty Romanian cuisine, inside a beautiful ancient building. I had Sarmale cu mămăligă, wine leaves stuffed with meat, served with soft polenta (some kind of cornmeal). It was so delicious!!! I haven’t had sarmale OR mămăligă this good for the rest of our Romanian trip.

The front of the restaurant

Inside; pretty fancy huh?

Myself and one of the waitresses. Ok, dressing up in traditional costume is kind of cheesy, but ahh well!

My meal. Looks kind of weird, but it was fucking delicious!!

Romania is one of the most religious countries of Europe, and you can see Orthodox churches pretty much everywhere, and in each neighbourhood. I don’t know much about Orthodox Christianity but I do enjoy byzantine and icon art quite a lot, so I was quite happy to explore their rich history here! We went to the patriarchy, who is the heart of Romanian Orthodox Christianity. The building looked really weird, and a bunch of funny looking priests were walking around. We stepped inside the church, and there was a mass going on! Many women had a veil on their heads, and some were doing prostrations. The choirs also sounded quite evil… it was an unusual experience for us; and we didn’t stay very long. Haha!

Patriarchy of Romania

Painted murals outside the church

We also went to the Buna Vestire church in the old center of Bucharest. The inside was richly decorated with gold and with many icons everywhere. Outside, women were praying and were lighting candles. I always wonder why it’s mostly women you see at churches! Do they sin more than men? Haha

Buna Vestire in Bucharest

Inside of the church. Not supposed to take photos, but what the hell! They were doing a little prayer and then going through a doorway to meet with the priest or something.

Icon art

Woman lighting candles and worshipping an icon

Downtown Bucharest was also the ruins of the Voivode Palace (Palatul Voievodal), which was built by Vlad Ţepeş (the impaler). Ţepeş is also the inspiration for Dracula – and is a national hero for having impaled and massacred many many Ottoman invaders. I guess you could say that Romania has influenced metal quite a lot!

Ruins of the Voivode palace from the 14th century

François standing in front of a Vlad Ţepeş statue! They kind of look similar, don’t you think? Haha

So, that’s what we did in our four days in Bucharest! We also were a bit sick (we were both had pretty flashy-coloured mucus) so we didn’t do much else. Except laughing at this funny mall name; Zizi mall. Zizi means penis in French-Canadian. Usually for small boys haha

Zizi mall!

Sinaia
24-06-2012 (morning)

Getting to Sinaia by was really easy and quick. We were excited to visit our first Transylvanian destination! It was raining outside, so it made everything looking a little bit more horror-movie like!! Sinaia is more like a tourist resort – where people come to do skiing in winter and enjoy the breathtaking scenery of the Carpathian mountains. Many nobles found the place suitable for building summer retreats and castles, so we went to visit one of them – the lush Peleş castle, built by Carol 1st. It was actually the first European castle which had electricity!

Coming out of the train station was a view of the smoky Carpathian mountains

One of the many cool-looking retreats built by nobles

Before we got to the castle, we were quite hungry, and had a Transylvanian speciality; Kurtös Kälaks! It means “chimney cake” and actually, it was imported by Hungarians who lived in the region. It’s basically rising dough that is wrapped around a stick, and baked over hot embers. It is usually dusted with sugar and baked until caramelized! It can then be covered with cinnamon, nuts and all sorts of yummy things.

Kurtös kälak being done

François holding the monster. It was so delicious!!!!

So, we ate the whole thing and started ascending Sinaia on the way to the castle. There was a bunch of Rom people selling juicy-looking berries in cute hand-made baskets. I resisted the temptation, I was full anyway! The scenery was startling… it was nice to see a bit of nature.

Carpathian forest around the Peleş castle

The Peleş castle!! Isn’t it so impressive looking?

A door leading to the inside…

We had to pay 15$ to take photos inside, so I didn’t, unfortunately. I just took two sneaky shots before the guards gave me evil eyes:

The weapon rooms! See that sword in the middle of the photo? This sword was used to cut the head off nobles. It was so nobles could live eternal lives. Fascinating!

More weapons! I thought these looked like they could have inspired Tom G. Warrior for HELLHAMMER and CELTIC FROST artwork.

The castle was really beautiful inside – I never visited such a castle (usually they are in ruins!) and I kind of felt privileged to be able to see its insides. We had to wear some kind of shoe covers so we wouldn’t ruin the carpets. Everything looked so rich inside, it was really crazy! But I wonder, these people probably didn’t have much fun… everything was so proper and well-mannered and all.  They had secret passages in EVERY room so the servants could appear and disappear without the guests knowing!!

Anyway, we had to leave after visiting the castle because we had get to Braşov, which was only a couple of hours away…

Braşov
24-06-2012 (evening)

We arrived in Braşov just in time for dinner. It was Sunday and everything was closed, except for some touristic restaurant near our hostel. We deserved a nice big meal after our day of sightseeing, so we ordered two Romanian specialities:

Tochitură; fried pork, mămăligă (polenta) and fried egg. A really kickass combo.

Sarmale (stuffed cabbage – this time), with pan fried cabbage, grilled ham and mămăligă

The food was much blander than at the restaurant we went to in Bucharest, but it was still very satisfying. We also tried a dark Romanian beer, Ursus Black:

Ursus Black. Pretty tasty and surprisingly refreshing!

The square near where we lived was very pretty; it had historical buildings including the first Romanian school, as well as a really epic-looking church from the 1400’s

The Unirii piaţa with a cool building

Saint-Nicholas church, never seen such architecture before!

Transylvanian cat hanging out around the square

Transylvanian snail

Saint-Nicholas church at another angle, with a cemetery. Photo taken right before a storm at sundown!

Our hostel was really nice in Braşov; our breakfast was huge, we had a free beer every day, and they had a really cute and insanely HUGE sheepdog as a pet. That monster dog breed is named “Mioritic Shepard Dog” and they are ancient ones that came from the Carpathian mountains. It must have been around 33 inches tall, and the biggest dog in the world is 35 inches tall! I was beyond impressed.

Myself with Lord, the hostel sheepdog

François with the doggie. The photos really fail to show how big and impressive he really was.

We did quite a lot of exploring in the city – mostly staying in the heart of the medieval part of town. We went to visit the Piaţa Sfatului (centre of the town), and its gothic-style Black Church. This part of town was actually the last place in Europe to be where witches were judged and burnt down!

The Black Church seen from a little mountain. It’s not really THAT black I know, it was named that way after a fire about 400 years ago.

We were lucky enough to be there for an organ concert in that very church. They only played about 45 minutes, but the organist was on fire!!!! He played four pieces, Andante and Fantasie by Mozart, as well as Choralvorspiel/Preludiu de coral and Praeludium und Fuge by Bach. It was bone-chilling, and totally François and myself goosebumps. Imagine hearing such evil-sounding organ in a gothic Black Church amidst Carpathian mountains in the middle of Transylvania. It couldn’t get cooler than that.

The organ and inside of the Black Church.

We also went to see some medieval towers and fortifications that were built to protect the city against Ottoman invaders. They weren’t that impressive, but it was cool to see anyway:

The Black Tower. Another one that doesn’t look black! I wonder what’s the story behind that one… I just know that it’s really old haha

Part of fortifications around the old part of the city. Notice the “Brasov” Hollywood-style name in the mountain at the back!

This funny toilet was beside the tower. I love how it’s written “Hell” on it haha, I didn’t test if it was really hellish inside… or perhaps it was an obscure gate to hell?

Near Braşov is the small village of Bran, where stands the Bran castle – misleadingly named “Dracula castle”. Vlad Ţepeş never had anything to do with that quite recent castle (he was from the 1400’s!) but it looks so evil that it was named that way. Sadly, we couldn’t really see it because it was shrouded beneath a mini-forest. We knew it was a tourist trap, but we still went because I wanted to buy some cool souvenirs haha

The Bran castle – the only angle we found that we could aptly see the castle architecture

Door entering the Bran castle…

The interior was really disappointing and pretty much useless. It looked like a half-ass attempt on showing the inside of a castle. It seriously looked like it was a school project or something! And yet, we paid something like 8$ to enter. A real rip-off.

The only cool room in the castle. The rest was quite boring, especially after the previous castle we visited!

François climbing the stairs of a not-so-secret secret passage.

On top of that, the souvenirs were not that cool! They were really non-imaginative and 90’s looking Dracula paraphernalia. The t-shirts were ugly, everything was really amateur looking. The only pretty cool thing I found was a Vlad Ţepeş beer and plate set. Haha

Vlad Ţepeş porcelain

Now, onward to our next destination…

Sighişoara
29-06-2012

We took a slow train, and arrived in the Transylvanian medieval town of Sighişoara in early afternoon. The temperature was absolutely hot, and we had to climb the stairs to the citadel with our bags. Not fun! But we arrived to a nice little hotel, which had a beautiful garden and some comfortable beds.

The cheapest train we could find, leading us to Sighişoara. Didn’t smell too good inside with all the heat.

The citadel part of Sighişoara was small and we could visit it in 15 minutes, really. It was nice to walk around to relax and discover colourful medieval houses. This rich historical centre has also been classified Unesco since it is the last inhabited medieval citadel in Europe, and one of the best preserved.

Welcome to Sighişoara!

The clock tower (back) and some houses

More buildings and a bright moon

Sighişoara is Vlad Ţepeş’ birthplace, and his childhood home is still standing. Unfortunately, it’s been turned into a cheesy Dracula-style cafe, with bland overpriced food. Still cool to be able to see it though:

Vlad Ţepeş’ home until he was 4 years old!

Outside the cafe was a totally lame looking Dracula who was posing for tourists. I couldn’t resist the temptation… what a horrible makeup job though! Haha

Vlad the Imposter

Another Vlad Ţepeş statue. They really love him there!

A day before, François got some incredible news from home… he actually got offered a really good job at his old workplace in Montreal – therefore, we are already set for when we come back to Canada. What good news!!!! To celebrate, we went to a semi-fancy restaurant, which served some nice traditional Romanian food:

Mutton on mămăligă – the mutton was really tasty, but the mămăligă was a bit bland

Duck leg served on pan-seared cabbage… yum

A weird thing happened on the second day. A Swedish guy with a sleeve full of morbid tattoos and an Amebix shirt arrived in our dorm room. We were surprised! Not only have we been alone in dorms since we started travelling in Romania, but this was the first time since the beginning of this trip that a total stranger and fellow traveler had exactly the same musical tastes as us!!! He even was in Muskelrock and loves pretty much the same metal and punk that we do. His name was Viktor, and together we had many beers, and we hiked to an ancient oak conservation park.

Myself and Viktor. I’m excited because of the huge cotton candy I’m holding in my hands. I know, not very metal…

Oak park. According to our guide, some oaks there are as old as 800 years!

François and Annick “under the oak”.

Daniel told us something that kind of fucked the rest of our trip in Romania. He told us that SAINT VITUS, one of our favourite bands ever, were playing in a few days in Budapest, the capital of Hungary. We looked at our things, crossed out some cities we wanted to visit, looked at train schedules, booked flight tickets and the next day, we took a bus to the town of Targu Mures, then flew to Budapest…

Budapest, Hungary
03-07-2012

Myself in front of a Dead Can Dance show flyer (going to see them in Montreal at our return!!!)

Budapest felt like a little bit like Prague, which we visited 5 years ago. The buildings are decorated with finely sculpted ornaments, and the food was a bit similar… but more expensive (at least in our neighbourhood). We could easily spent 30$ on a meal, which is a big change from Romania – which cost us 10$ similar food! We really wanted to explore its culinary side, but we simply couldn’t afford to eat out all the time – so we had tons of sandwiches, haha. We did try a their very famous goulash soup and beef stew though!

Goulash soup. Not as good as Czech goulash, but not really comparable either. It’s spicy, greasy and full of paprika goodness! I enjoyed it, even though the 8$ price left me a bit of a sour taste.

Beef stew with “pulled” noodles. This was really good, especially the noodles – when soaked in the stew sauce

Some very funny BATHORY slices we found in a food store!!

The Saint Vitus gig was the day after we arrived in Budapest, and in the afternoon before the show, we relaxed the whole day at the beautiful Gallért baths, which is one of Budapest’s most famous spa (what a way to get ready for a show!!) So, we stayed 5 hours bathing and relaxing in rich thermal water, filled with minerals and other goodies… only to ruin it all by banging our heads like maniacs and drinking like fishes!!

Gallért baths, Budapest

Myself with my bathing hat, in the exfoliating pool

The show was at the A38, which is a boat-venue located on the Danube river. At sun set, we walked there from our hostel, armed with pre-drinking beers and singing Saint Vitus songs. We imagined how the show would be… would they sing Burial at Sea?

François on the side of the Danube, doing some pre-drinking with a cheap Hungarian beer

The boat-venue! It was a really cool place to hold concerts!

We were there pretty early as usual, so we hung out and talked to people around. I noticed SAINT VITUS hot sauce (!), which is hand-made by their roadie. They were selling them for a lot of money, but you could trade them for some amusing stuff:

Saint Vitus hot sauce trade

They were also selling a tom skin, filled with funny drawings and signatures:

Saint Vitus tom skin

But the coolest was a pink (!) “Born Too Late” shirt, which was François’ dream for years! Unfortunately, he tried it on, and it looked really really bad on him, so we didn’t buy it…

Saint Vitus merch table

There were three Hungarian bands that opened the show; WALL OF SLEEP, MAGMA RISE and a third one that I forgot. They were ok, but didn’t really have a stage presence or really insane riffs that made me go crazy. Perhaps they were a bit too influenced by the Southern Rock scene. Baah. no problem, I was keeping all my power for the Vitus anyway! Finally, after a few hours, they started playing. It was unbelievable… I saw them twice before in festival settings, but I never saw them from that close, in a smaller venue like this. The sound was loud, and I basically had the whole band playing right in my face… arghhh! On the left of me was a Spanish couple, which I discovered were the roommates of my friend Dopi of MACHETAZO! What a coincidence! So together with François, we headbanged the hell out of our poor necks.

Henry and Wino

Dave Chandler

Dave Chandler soloing! See how close I was??

Dave Chandler rocking his cry baby pedal

A very possessed Wino and Mark Adams

Henry, beating his drums to death

The band was really on fire, they ripped a really incredible set, playing songs like “Clear Windowpane”, “Born Too Late”, “Dying Inside”, “Saint Vitus”, “White Stallions” (they played it twice as fast, I almost shit my pants haha, it was so good!), “Living Backwards”, “Let Them Fall” (from the new album), as well as two other songs from the last record. But no “Burial at Sea”… the manager later told me that there are certain songs they wouldn’t play in some situations… haha! Chandler was playing with his mouth as usual, and even used the Spanish girl’s hair for soloing. He later thanked her by dropping his guitar pick in her shirt. What a gentleman! Hahahaha

After they played, the band members went inside the crowd and talked with the fans. Dave Chandler actually recognized me from the cover of Hellbent for Cooking (!!) and was so excited, he took a photo with me to show his wife! Apparently, he worked in a herb or natural store or something, that distributes it. It was weird to be taken in photo like this haha! We also talked a bit with Wino, who had a Blue Oyster Cult conversation with François (he was wearing the shirt)… After that, we got together with the Spanish couple and went for some post-drinking! We stopped at some Janis Joplin pub, had a huge beer, then bought some more cans in a convenience store. Let’s just say that I was beyond hungover the next day haha

Drinking at the Janis Joplin pub in Budapest!

Speaking of being beyond hungover, I woke up with a bruise on my eye. I think I accidently knocked my head on an amp or something. It looked pretty cool anyway haha. Battle scars!

Saint Vitus black eye

So, we only had one day left in Budapest before we went back to Romania. We had to do SOME touristic thing at least, so we walked around and discovered the city. We ended up walking something like 10 kilometers, being hangover as hell, and in the extreme heat. It actually helped to walk that much, I was feeling way better at the end of the day! We started by visiting the impressive parliament building, which has been built in a gothic style. It looked really cool from up close – with gargoyles and really realistic looking statues of all sorts of characters:

Budapest parliament building with the Danube river in front

We then walked up the castle hill and saw the dominant neo-gothic church of St-Mathias, which we didn’t enter (it was 5$ – screw that). The outside was nice though, especially the patterns on the roof! Never seen something like that before. Around were some sculptures and statues of kings and even some sort of Viking-looking men…

St-Mathias Church, Budapest

Cool guy on a horse statue

Some Viking-looking men! I don’t know too much about Hungarian history as we were in a hurry in and out of the country, but I was quite surprised to see that. Are they what they call the “magyars”?

We also saw the outside of the palace, but it was pretty uninteresting. It might not seem like alot, but I can say that it was really difficult with our monster hangovers to walk in the heat like that haha. Ahh well.

Cluj Napoca
06-07-2012

The following day, we took an early train over to Cluj Napoca, in Romania, which took about 9 hours to arrive. What really sucked about it was that the air conditioning was broken in second class, so we were in something like 40 degrees for a big part of it. We couldn’t do anything, we were just baking under all that heat. When we crossed the Hungarian border, the staff took pity on us and moved us to the first class, where there was nice air conditioning. Ouf!

Cluj is a modern youthful city with one of Europe’s largest universities. We only had half a day to explore it, but what I’ve seen was pretty cool! I especially enjoyed the large Orthodox cathedral – which had many byzantine-styled mosaics in the inside. We also found a cheap restaurant next to our hostel that served really really nice food for real cheap.

The Cluj Orthodox church. Not that impressive on the outside…

But very cool on the inside! That artwork was actually a mosaic. It was incredible!

Some buildings downtown Cluj

The restaurant made everything totally by hand, including pickles. They are some of the best pickles I’ve ever had, and honestly, it really makes me feel like doing some when I come back home! They also served green tomato pickles, which were particularly delicious.

Lentil soup with smoked ham and green tomato pickles in the background

Schnitzel smothered in cheese and then deep fried!

Infamous pickles. Wish I could have some now…

The hostel we picked in Cluj was not very well laid out. We picked a 8-bed dorm, but there was another 10-bed dorm attached to it. We had a toilet in our dorm, as well as the exit – so you can just imagine the kind of highway our room was the whole night! It was really shitty and I barely slept that night. Anyway, our next destination is the region of Maramureş, which was another good 5 hours in an oven-train. Haha! I never sweated so much in my life!

Maramureş
 07-07-2012

Maramureş is the most northern part of Romania. A little bit more north, and it’s Ukraine! We went there basically to soak in nature, and see the more rural side of Romania. In fact, this region is quite famous for its timeless villages, traditional wooden churches, beautiful mountain landscape and its merry cemetery.

We started by staying in Baia Mare – the biggest city in the region, and then taking a mini-bus to the countryside. We found a guesthouse in a tiny village called Breb, which apparently hasn’t changed very much in hundreds of years. We had to walk two kilometres to reach our guesthouse, since the bus didn’t directly go to it:

For lunch in Baia Mare, had some plačinta; deep-fried cheese and dill stuffed bread.

On the way to Breb, in the Romanian countryside.

The only street in Breb and some little houses

One of the two village churches! The village probably has 100 houses, but it has two churches. So weird.

The church entrance which was fully carved in wood

A little lady transporting some stuff around. All the ladies dressed that way – with the veil on their hair and a medium-length skirt. If the skirt was long and colourful, it’d be a gypsy.

Our guesthouse was absolutely fantastic. Although it was quite expensive (50 euros per night!) we got a gigantic breakfast and a rich dinner every night, as well as never ending alcoholic drinks. It was so peaceful at night, it felt good to be able to have real nights of sleep!

Our guesthouse, made in wood in the local style

François hanging out on the porch

Our room. It was fully decorated with traditional handiwork from the region!

The food was excellent – although very rich (we were craving veggies after staying three days haha). And of course, you always had to take a shot of ţuică (plum moonshine) before each meal. This region is very famous for its extremely strong ţuică. In fact, I think they call it palinca when it reaches a certain degree of alcohol! That was one flammable, so it was pretty fucking strong haha

The drinks! The bottle with reddish liquid in it is actually filled with a mix of ţuică and red berry syrup. The bottle with the ladder in it is the strong as hell ţuică.

Taking a shot! It burns like hell, but it actually tastes really good!

The meals themselves would always start with a soup, a main meal and then a light dessert. The best were always the soups – I think it’s the Romanian specialty. The best soup (which I couldn’t stop eating) was this one:

Ciorba de legume – veggie soup with pieces of beef. I had like 4 bowls.

Other kickass meals were legs of chicken served on chicken pilaf rice, stuffed cabbage and mămăligă stuffed with cheese!

Tender chicken legs

Mămăligă with cheese. The brown things are smoked pieces of lard that have been roasted. Best part of the dish haha

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the epic breakfasts we had every morning. They consisted of veggies with home-made ham, fresh cheese with dill, fresh bread, home-made jam, coffee, tea, fresh milk (straight from the cow haha) and PANCAKES! What a way to wake up in the morning, damn!

Breakfast at our guesthouse

We chose that specific guesthouse because they rented bikes as part of a “friendlier-environment” thing. I don’t know what I was thinking, bus when we saw the mountains, we knew it was not very bike friendly… nevertheless, we still did a day of biking. We walked half the time, and the other half, went down crazy slopes! It was actually quite fun!!!

Myself with my bike in the Romanian countryside. I got a sunburn that day. I’ve never been this dark in my life haha

So we drove our bikes an hour and a half to the village of Deseşti, to see its famous wooden church of the Holy Paraskeva. Built in 1770, and classified Unesco in 1995, it might look small and innocent on the outside, but the inside is really impressive…

Wooden church of Deseşti

A few crosses in its cemetery

The inside is fully painted by an artist called Radu Munteanu, and its colourful iconography includes scenes from the Old and New Testament… It was also decorated with traditional crafts and many ancient icons. It was really awesome to see all of that…

A chandelier, giving the church a sinister lighting…

The ceiling

Icons

Apparently, a quite valuable icon…

A doorway inside the church (and François in the background!)

Representation of Hell

A beheading about to take place

Myself inside of the church

We met a really nice French family who invited me to come with them a little bit further in the north to visit a market as well as the infamous Merry Cemetery. I was beyond stoked – I had kind of given up on going because we either had to rent a car or go with a guide… and both was too expensive for us. So, we woke up early and started with the Sighetu Marmatei market!

We crossed this guy on the way to the market. Half of the people there used horse carriages, it’s really cool to see!

Another dude on a carriage

Veal for sale

Horses for sale

A woman selling home-made cheese. She found it hilarious that I wanted to take a photo of her cheese shack!

Woman making some hand-made rugs and selling them. She was really nice, but we didn’t buy from her. Didn’t really like the style haha

After that, we went to the Merry Cemetery in Săpânta. So, what’s so merry about this cemetery? In 1935, a craftsman and woodcarver had the idea to lay aside the sadness and dark aspects related to death by adding witty poems related to the person’s life on their grave. He died in the late 70’s, but his work was carried on by one of his apprentices. The result is a really colourful cemetery with curious drawings of the deceased! Only one of these cemeteries exist in the world, so it is very unique and was very interesting to visit. I couldn’t read what was written on the tombs, but according to my guidebook, one of them went like “Here lays my step mother/If she wouldn’t have died/It would have been me” – which I found really funny!

Săpânta’s Merry Cemetery

The apprentice painting a tomb

A guy ringing some gigantic bells with his feet

Obviously, this dude has not had a happy ending

This one my friend translated for me… it says “ţuică is pure poison/It brings pain and suffering, So it did to me/Brought me to the grave, Who likes ţuică a lot/Will end up like me, Because I loved ţuică/I died with ţuică in hand” I love how death is reaching out for the deceased one! Haha

Săpânta also apparently has Europe’s tallest wooden church. It’s actually pretty recent (2003 I think?) but its size is very impressive! It’s unbelievable that it’s all been made with wood…

Săpânta’s wooden church

Details of the roof work. Apparently these tiles have to be changed every 20 years or something? What a pain in the ass haha

On the way back, we stopped to do a bit of groceries for the French family. I saw some funny items that I couldn’t help but take a photo of…

Bottled crap! It’s actually fish eggs or something.

Vlad ţuică!!! The slogan was “The spirit of Transylvania…” haha

We came back to Baia Mare for a night, and then took the plane to Bucharest (as it was like 15 hours away and we simply didn’t have time to travel all the way there!)

Our plane heading to Bucharest. The view of the mountains was so beautiful, with the rising sun and all!

Bucharest (part 2!)
13-07-2012

We were hosted by our friend Andrei for our last couple of days in Romania, and we had a really good time together! We listened to music (SLAUGHTER!!! AUTOPSY!!), did some cooking and drinking, and we went to Bucharest’s cemetery. I wanted Andrei to taste poutine, so I made one of the Italian varieties:

François and Andrei eating Italian poutine. That damn thing took like two hours to cook, due to having a stove that did not heat properly!

I also made some sort of mushroom goulash with a full bulb and a half of garlic. It was really good, I will definitely make some again!!

Mushroom goulash with Hungarian-style pulled noodles!

On Friday night, we went to Private Hell, which is apparently the best metal bar in Bucharest. They played really bad songs, but I told them it was my birthday and wrote them a big playlist. It was brilliant when they started playing it!!! But then we got the hell out when it was done haha, all they played was modern metal…

Myself and Andrei fighting after a few beers

On Thursday, Daniel, Andrei’s young 13-year old NWOBHM fanatic brother, came to join us at the apartment, and then we went to visit the city’s biggest cemetery. It was a nice cemetery – just like I like them. Lots of vegetation and worn out tombstones! They even had some traditional graves scattered here and there:

Traditional Romanian-style graves

Another one, with the all-seeing eye!

Contrary to that Merry Cemetery I’ve been to in the north, sadness was represented here. I tried to make this one merry…

Yay! Death!

There’s also a very special tomb of a young girl called Iulia Hasdeu. Andrei told me that this little girl was a real genius – she wrote many poem books, knew seven languages and was incredibly talented. But she left the world too early; she died at 18 of tuberculosis. Apparently, her father got in touch with her through a medium, and she dictated him exactly how he wanted him to build a castle (including decorations and everything) as well as her grave! And that’s the result…

Grave of Iulia Hasdeu. Her skull has been stolen once, but retrieved. Andrei told us that she some sort of Romanian “Melissa”!

We then took a photo of all of us in front of some cool-looking grave thing. A security guard was carefully watching us so we don’t do any desecrations… haha

François, myself, Daniel and Andrei

The next day, I woke up at 3AM, jumped on a plane for Germany, and here I am – in Nuremberg at my friend Seb and Nikki’s place! In a few days, I shall be going to Hell’s Pleasure, then take a bus to Paris and head home back to Canada… only a week is left before the end of our trip, arghhh!!!


3 responses to “Transylvanian Hunger

  • Véro

    Ahhh! Tu reviens à Montréal? Yay! 😀 Je sais que tu préférais Gatineau mais ça me convient beaucoup hehehe. Et puis tu vas voir Dead Can Dance aussi? Sweet! C’est le lendemain de ton show de Cauchemar je crois. 🙂

    Tu dois être à la fois triste et contente de rentrer à la maison hein? Toute une aventure.

    • Annick

      Salut Véro! En effet, je voulais retourner habiter dans l’Outaouais mais François a eu une offre qu’on pouvait pas refuser. Alors, je reviens à Montréal! 🙂 Toi aussi tu vas à DCD?? Cool!! On devrait y aller ensemble. Oui, c’est le lendemain du show, ça va être très cool.

      Je suis en fait pas mal anxieuse de rentrer à la maison. J’ai tellement de projets qui m’attend et j’ai hâte de revoir ma famille et mes amis… et surtout d’avoir un vrai chez-soi!! François, lui, pourrait continuer encore pendant des années 😉 Haha, en tout cas, à bientôt!

  • Ginette

    Intéressant ce blog, mais super contente de vous revoir dans 7 jours…yeh! À bientôt. Maman xxx

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